The circuit of the two highest peaks in Retezat MountainsPeleaga Peak and Papusa Peak.

Peleaga Peak is the highest peak in Retezat Mountains, with an elevation of 2509m.

Păpușa Peak is the second highest peak in Retezat, reaching an elevation of 2508m. If you want to hike up these two peaks, we suggest setting up your basecamp at Bucura Lake.

Bucura lake and Slaveiu ridge - seen from Peleaga peak
Bucura lake and Slaveiu ridge – seen from Peleaga peak

Access to Bucura Lake:

Deva (42km) > Hațeg (10km) > take the national road toward Caransebes > make a turn toward Clopotiva village (6 km) > Tomeasa dam and Gura Apei reservoir lake > Lunca Rotunda > Poiana Pelegii (Pelegii Glade).

At Tomeasa dam you will have to pay the fee for entering Retezat National Park (10 RON/person and 7 RON/car).

Tomeasa dam and Gura Apei reservoir lake - Retezat mountains
Tomeasa dam and Gura Apei reservoir lake – Retezat mountains

General info: The 17km from Tomeasa dam to Pelegii Glade are along the Lăpușnicul Mare river. This river separates the Retezat Mountains from Godeanu Mountains and Retezatul Mic (Piule-Iorgovanul) Mountains.

View of Păpușa Peak - the second highest peak in Retezat
View of Păpușa Peak – the second highest peak in Retezat

During the last ice age, this valley was covered by the Lăpușnicul Mare glacier. During the peak period of this glacier, its terminus reached an elevation of only 1100m.

The glacier was 18.1 km in length and covered a surface of 40.1 km2, thus being the largest of its kind in the Romanian Carpathians.

Circuit of Peleaga peak and Păpușa peak - Carpathian Mountains
Circuit of Peleaga peak and Păpușa peak – Carpathian Mountains

Lăpușnicul Mare glacier was formed through the merging of two „tributaries”: Peleaga glacier and Bucura glacier, each of them being 4km in length. Scientific studies determined that the surface of the Lăpuşnic glacier was at an elevation of 1900m, which means that the ice was 200m thick.

Retezat Mountains - Travel to Romania
Retezat Mountains – Travel to Romania

The tourist mountain trail Poiana Pelegii (Pelegii Glade) – Bucura Lake

In order to get to Bucura Lake, you will have to hike up on a trail marked with red triangle signs. The hike has a 440m elevation gain. The trail is accessible to anyone, regardless of their mountain experience. The route takes between 1:30 and 2:00 hours.

The tourist mountain trail Poiana Pelegii (Pelegii Glade) – Bucura Lake
The tourist mountain trail Poiana Pelegii (Pelegii Glade) – Bucura Lake

The trail climbs parallel to the Bucura valley and to the chain of lakes bearing girl’s names: Florica lake (2090m), Viorica lake (2070m), Ana lake (1979m) and Lia lake (1908m). This last lake collects the water from the previous ones and from Bucura lake. From Lia lake springs the Bucura creek which, at an elevation of 1580m, converges with Peleaga creek, thus giving birth to the Lăpuşnicul Mare river.

As you gain altitude, you leave behind the Pinaceae trees (firs, spruces, pines) and you start to realize what a great influence glaciers had on the current look of this landscape.

Ancient river valleys were heavily eroded by the slow flow of huge volumes of ice, thus gaining their current U-shaped profile.

arolla pine trees (Pinus cembra) and juniper fields - Retezat mountains
arolla pine trees (Pinus cembra) and juniper fields – Retezat mountains

If you pay attention to the surroundings, you might spot some arolla pine trees (Pinus cembra) among the juniper fields. This tree is a relic of the Quaternary period and it is considered to be one of the most valuable plants that grow in the subalpine zone.

Bucura lake is, by surface area, the largest lake in Retezat Mountains.

It is located at an elevation of 2041m, it has a surface area of 11 hectares. Retezat Mountains host almost 100 glacial lakes.

Bucura Lake - Carpathian Mountains
Bucura Lake – Carpathian Mountains

Camping options: you can camp by the Bucura lake where you will find many good places to pitch your tent. There is also a basic mountain shelter by the lake where you can spend the night if you don’t have a tent. This is the only shelter in the area, so there is a high chance to find it occupied (especially on weekends), that’s why we recommend bringing along a tent.

The climatic conditions in the Bucura Cirque are quite rough, there are often strong winds and heavy rain. So choose a good sturdy waterproof tent for this trip.

Camping site at Bucura lake
Camping site at Bucura lake

The circuit of Peleaga peak and Păpușa peak: This route starts from Bucura Lake. It is 16 km in length and it has a cumulative elevation gain of 1500 m.

Trekking in Retezat mountains - Romania
Trekking in Retezat mountains – Romania

We recommend packing your backpacks as lightly as possible, bringing along only the mandatory gear for such a day trip: waterproof/windproof jacket, high-calorie food, headlamp, emergency blanket, sunglasses, first aid kit and penknife.

Retezat Mountains - subunit of Carpathian Mountains
Retezat Mountains – subunit of Carpathian Mountains

You might also find it useful to have gaiters, sunscreen or trekking poles. On this route, you will find water only at Bucura Lake and at Poiana Pelegii. There are also a few springs below the Custura peak, but they are not active year-round.

Peleaga peak and Peleaga lake - Romania
Peleaga peak and Peleaga lake – Romania

When to go: Due to the high altitude of the ridge that this route follows, you might find snow until late in the season. Usually, the snow persists until at least the beginning of June. You should take these facts into account when packing for this trip.

Time required for the route: 8 – 10 hours.

Hiking in Romania - Retezat Mountains
Hiking in Romania – Retezat Mountains

Main attractions: Bucura Lake > Peleaga Peak> Păpușa Peak>Păpușa Mică Peak> Custura Peak> Plaiul Mic Col> Poiana Pelegii (Pelegii Glade)> Bucura Lake.

From Bucura lake, you will pass by the Mountain Rescue Refuge and continue on the trail marked with yellow triangle signs, which will take you all the way up to Peleaga peak. There is a 470m vertical elevation difference between Bucura lake and Peleaga Peak. Peleaga is an isolated peak, hence it offers an amazing view of Bucura lake and of the nearby peaks – Bucura, Slăveiu, Judele and Retezat.

Climbing to Peleaga peak - Retezat mountains
Climbing to Peleaga peak – Retezat mountains

From Peleaga peak, you will descend underneath Colții Pelegii (where there are climbing routes), then continue toward Păpușa peak where you will get in about 1,5 hours. This trail is marked with yellow cross signs.

Between Păpuşa and Peleaga, the trail goes through a rocky area mostly void of any vegetation. From Pelegii Col, located only 250m below Păpușa peak, there is a great view to the north of the glacial cirque in Rea Valley and of all the mountain lakes in that valley.

Peleaga Peak - highest peak in Retezat Mountains
Peleaga Peak – highest peak in Retezat Mountains

Păpuşa peak (2508m) is an important orographic node where converge the Păpușa-Custura ridge and the Țapului Peak – Porțile Închise – Vârful Mare peak ridge.

From Păpuşa peak you will have the best view of the numerous glacial cirques that form the glacial complex from where the Bărbat river springs.

Papusa peak seen from Peleaga peak
Papusa peak seen from Peleaga peak

The route continues on the Păpușa-Custura ridge. From this area, a full perspective of Peleaga peak and of Peleaga and Peleguța lakes will open up. You will need to pass through a few easy scrambling sections before Custura peak.

Descent from Peleaga peak to Pelegii Col
Descent from Peleaga peak to Pelegii Col

We suggest making a small detour from this route to also climb up on the Cusutra peak (2457m). From this peak, you will have a nice view of the two mountain lakes below Custurii peak. These are the mountain lakes located at the highest elevation in Romania – 2270m.

Papusa - Custura ridge - Retezat mountains
Papusa – Custura ridge – Retezat mountains

The route starts descending underneath the Păpușa Custurii Peak toward the Plaiul Mic Col. In the col, our route meets up with the red cross route which we will take until the Poiana Pelegii (Pelegii Glade). 

The route starts descending underneath the Păpușa Custurii Peak
The route starts descending underneath the Păpușa Custurii Peak

From the Plaiul Mic Col, it is worth looking around at the Drăgșanu Ridge and at the Piule Iorgovanul Mountains. Although the Piule Iorgovanul mountains are not even nearly as high as the main peaks in Retezat, the area is worth a visit as it hides many surprises.

Plaiul Mic Col - Retezat Mountains
Plaiul Mic Col – Retezat Mountains

You are now at an altitude of 1879m and next you should get ready for a descent of 280 vertical meters. Poiana Pelegii is a good place for a break before hiking back up to Bucura lake.

Bucura lake - Retezat mountains
Bucura lake – Retezat mountains

Useful info:

  • Clopotiva village is the last place where you can buy food before going into the mountains. If you are planning to spend a longer period in the mountains, you have to bring yourself everything you need.
  • If are quiet on the trails, you increase your chances of seeing wildlife. Marmots or chamois can be spotted quite easily.
  • The road to Poiana Pelegii is accessible by car (even by small cars). After Tomeasa dam the road is unpaved, but it is fairly good.
Bucura lake and Ana lake seen from Slaveiu ridge
Bucura lake and Ana lake seen from Slaveiu ridge

Retezat Mountains Romania from Travel Guide Romania on Vimeo.

For general information about Retezat Mountains, you can also read the following article

Pentru versiunea in limba romana

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